Tent Modification – Bass Pro Eclipse Cabin Tent

What could make a tent better when camping, working in remote locations or during a natural or man-made disasters?  The ability to keep the resident comfortable.  That is, cool in hot weather and warm in cold climates.  As well as keep out insects and undesirable wildlife such as snakes.  I’ve been using tents to reside in at infrequent intervals for various reasons since the mid 1970’s.  My experience has taught me that the value of getting a good night rest and recuperation cannot be overstated.

Over the last 6 months all but 1 of our 20 year old tents have been replaced.  That means we have tents in our inventory without air conditioner hose plenums or sleeves.  Those sleeves would allow either an internal or external air source to blow or draw in air for cooling or heating.  In the past if a screened window on a tent would zip closed to help keep in cool or warm air that is what was used.  Keeping the window cover closed always kept occupant from seeing what was going on outside.  I never did like that.

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Window with Velcro sewn on

Being unhappy without a view I decided to change how I modify the tents.  New tents with screened windows will now be outfitted with clear vinyl removable panels.  For this project Velcro brand hook & loop will be sewn to the tent and vinyl panels.  That way the original function of the window will still work as designed.  The Velcro will allow changes to easily be made in minutes.

TRIANGLE

One of two triangle roof vents

The Eclipse tent also has two triangle screened panels on the roof.  Those panels will be placed on the outside of the tent.  That way it will help prevent sagging into the interior space.  The ventilation sleeves will be 8″ to accommodate 6″ – 8″ hose typically used for smaller home size air conditioners and heaters.  At the end of the hose sleeve will be a cinch cord that can be tightened around the hose to reduce air infiltration and keep the unwanted out.

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Ventilation sleeves

The first step for this project was compile a list of materials needed.  Next, obtain them.  I had the 210D nylon oxford fabric that I used for the ventilation sleeves on hand.  I used about 1 1/2 yards at a cost of $4.99 a yard.  The Velcro needed was about 20 yards per tent, cost for 50 yards of the hook and loop was about $100.00.

PATTERN

Making a template

The vinyl was purchased from Joann’s Fabric.  I went to the store to buy some but they didn’t have a continuous length of 14 yards.  I then looked for more locally on their website.  Turns out that was a really good thing.  If I had been able to get the 14 yards in store it would have cost $70.00.  Making the purchase online I was able to pick the order up at another store with a cost of $43.00.  That was a full 25 yard, 54″, 8 gauge roll.  A really good deal, plus I’d have some left over for other projects or repairs.

LAYOUT

Layout cut lines using a template

LAYOUT TENT

Using template to mark sew lines onto the tent

Once I had all the materials on hand I was eager to complete the project.  I made templates so it would be easier to duplicate the vinyl panels for the window and triangles.  Each panel was laid out then cut to size.  After that the sew lines could be laid out onto the tent.

SEW VINYL

Sewing Velcro onto vinyl panels

With the panels cut out and the sew lines marked I sewed the hook side of the Velcro onto the vinyl.  I used a Harbor Freight soldering gun I modified to function as a hot knife to cut out the ventilation sleeve hole.  I then sewed the ventilation sleeve onto the tent.  I learned the hard way that care must be used when sewing them because the fabric had partially been cut on the bias which would make it stretch out of place easily.

HOT KNIFE

Cutting ventilation holes with a soldering iron hot knife.

The most challenging part was next.  Getting all the tent fabric though the sewing machine arm while the hook part of the Velcro was applied.  That part of the project slowed my progress down a lot but it did go quicker than I expected.  Once the ventilation sleeves and the window parts were complete it was time for testing.

SEW A:C

Sewing ventilation sleeves onto tent wall.

The tent was set up and all the panels were installed.  With few exceptions the panels fit well.  I did have trouble in a couple of places where the tent fabric had shifted when the sew lines were laid out.  Those were easily remedied by shifting the panels slightly one way or another.  The project took about 20-22 hours once the materials arrived.  The time and financial cost will be well worth it for the comfort level it will provide.  This project was fun but I’m glad it is over.

HANG WINDOW

Placing vinyl panel over an open window

I made a video of the project progress if you’re interested.  If you’ve ever modified your tent what did you do?  How well did it work out?  Have a question or comment post it here.  -13

Defensor Fortis LCS PALS Filler Panel

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Defensor Fortis – Load Carrying System

Once again another DF-LCS (Defensor Fortis Load Carrying System) modification.  This time it’s for the elastic that connects the rear section to the two front sections.  After using the DF-LCS I was unhappy with the unused space created by the elastic connection and wanted a solution.  I had a surplus fighting load carrier (FLC) on hand when it dawned on me to break it down into individual components and reuse the parts to fill the space.

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Elastic connector between front and rear DF-LCS sections.

The PALS (pouch attachment ladder system) panels on the FLC would be perfect with little modification necessary.  Once they were removed from the rest of the assembly it would be easy to cut the parts to size, sew on the recycled edge binding, then sew the free ends together.  This would allow them to slip over the elastic connector then be laced to the front and rear section of PALS webbing with military spec paracord.

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PALS filler panel over elastic connector, laced onto front and rear sections.

The idea works well for the ALICE M-16 pouches I converted to MOLLE.  So far those have performed as expected when the ALICE magazine pouches are fully loaded with gear.  I did have to tighten the lace up to eliminate the slight sagging issue.

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Front view ALICE magazine pouch attached to PALS panel.

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Rear view of ALICE magazine pouch and PALS panel on a DF-LCS.

I don’t have a lot of detail here because it’s in the video.  The video moves from FLC disassembly, to layout, then sewing and finally how to make it work with the LCS.  Video below.  -13

Defensor Fortis LCS Belt Keeper & Flashlight Holster PALS modifications.

Time for some gear updates.  After switching from my old favorite ALICE LBE to MOLLE DF-LCS I experienced a couple of issues.  When using the LCS it would inch it’s way over my pants belt and push down creating discomfort.  I also noticed when in a sitting, crawling or in a prone position the rig would tend to climb toward my chest.  After thinking of a solution the only one I could think of was to attach straps that would keep the LCS from moving away from my waistline.

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Right segment of DF-LCS before adding belt keepers.

The idea came from my experience wearing a duty belt with belt keepers that were designed to hold the duty belt in line with my pants belt.  With this in mind I measured the area I wanted to place the keepers, doubled the length then added a inch and a half.  The extra length would give my fingers a place to work the snaps I intended to use.  Once I had the dimensions for the strap I cut six lengths of poly webbing, folded them in half and sewed them so the two halves would work as one.

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Right segment of LCS after belt keeper straps were added.

 

After sewing the keeper straps together they were sewn onto the three segments of the LCS.  Next the holes were punched then the snaps were added.  It was an easy project taking no more than 45-60 minutes to complete.  After testing the idea seems to work well to prevent the LCS from moving around and causing me trouble.  The LCS rig still has some movement/flexibility however it won’t move away from my waistline.  I made a short video, the link is below.

 

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I also modified what was labeled as a MOLLE flashlight holster to meet PALS specifications so I could attach it to my quick response belt.  The holster had the vertical snap strap but did not have the ladder webbing.  To fix this issue I removed the belt loop strap, opened the sewn seam to join the holster, added the new ladder section, then sewed the piece back together.  Time spent was about a half hour.  I made a how-I-did-it video the link its below.  -13

ALICE Magazine Pouch Turned MOLLE

From the Laboratory of Insane Schemes.  ALICE military surplus has been my load bearing choice since the mid 1970’s.  Not perfect for sure but it was a great place to carry my canteens and other items that would fit into ALICE 30 round magazine pouches.  Cut off the grenade pouch and they fit together nicely on an issue pistol belt.

Moving into the 2000’s.  After checking out some of the PALS / MOLLE surplus available I decided to change over.  Although the webbing can be hot and heavy the PALS way of attaching pouches or attachment of any kind to LBE or packs is a good one that almost makes the attached item a part of what it’s attached to.

Moving forward left unused canteen and ALICE magazine pouches packed in boxes and me wishing I had a better way than the adapters made to use ALICE on MOLLE.  The adapter still leaves the pouch flopping around like its on a pistol belt.  Not a very good solution.

I had the idea recently after a resupply to take apart an ALICE magazine pouch and see if I could convert it over to a MOLLE pouch.  If it would work it would fit perfectly on the space fillers on the DF-LCS rig elastic section I’d made from a zippered FLC purchased to salvage for parts.

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Inside view of FLC adapter/filler and “new” MOLLE magazine pouch attached.

First I had to figure out where the attachment straps would be placed near the top of the pouch and where to snap it on.  At the top I chose the hinge point for the lid so it wouldn’t interfere with access.  Snaps on the bottom.  When the snaps are on the back of the pouch they tend to push it out due to the bulk of the snap.  If snap popping becomes an issue they can always be changed to lift-the-DOT.  We’ll see what happens in the future.

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Finished pouch.

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Location of snaps

The web straps were the same length.   Doubled, folded in half and sewn together.  Measuring the magazine pouches for the PALS webbing I discovered that the pouch width could vary as much as a 1/4″ between 4 pouches.  I chose the widest width and cut all the pieces that size.  There are no actual dimensions in here because the variation in pouch width, measuring devices and points of measurement may not be the same as mine.  Duplicating it exactly may cause problems.

After lots of seam ripping and thread picking the pouch was in half and the ALICE webbing was removed.  Laying out the PALS is as simple as can be 1″ x 1 1/2″.  Since the pouch is so small I sewed a center line and the edges like I’ve seen on some issue pouches.  Sew the straps to the hinge point.  Keep it simple.

Although the snaps used and the Pres-n-Snap are designed to cut through the fabric without punching a hole, I did punch because the amount of pouches were small and I wanted more precise location of my snaps.  I’ve had puckering and slight movement of the snap post under pressure from the hand press that the finished snap was visibly off mark times I haven’t punched a hole first.  It’s also much easier on the body with a hand press if the hole has been punched.

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With the holes punched and the webbing sewn on, the stud part of the snap was installed on the bottom of the pouches.  I try to leave them until the end of the project or leave them off for as long as possible.  In the past I’ve put them on early thinking I’m saving time but they were in the way of the sewing machine on many occasions or were scratched up.

Once the snap half was in place the pouches could be sewn back together again.  The top and bottom received four stitch lines and the whole side of the pouch received two stitch lines.  That complete, the other half of the snaps were installed on the web straps and that was it.  Those are the steps I took to convert ALICE to MOLLE.  Now I have some of my favorite pouches to use again.  There’s a video below of the process.  -13

Materials used: Mil Spec DOT snaps, poly webbing, sunbrella thread.