Easy Camp Huntsville 500 Tent

I have not received compensation in any way for the video or this blog post. I put this up because I could not find a non company post or video about this model of tent. I want to provide useful information for those considering buying one.

Another addition to Camp Down the Rabbit Hole is the Easy Camp Huntsville 500 5 Person Tunnel Tent. It’s a 10′ x 15 1/2′ tunnel tent. The tent comes in three pieces, the outer part of the tent, considered the rainfly, the floor and the interior enclosed room. The rainfly is made from 190T 100% coated polyester with taped seams, the enclosed room from 100% uncoated polyester, the floor is 100% polyethylene.

There are five windows, two doors and vents. The main door has two zippers with Velcro tabs to attach the bottom to the rainfly and a double zipper screen panel. Both parts can be rolled up to the top of the entry and be held in place with toggles and loops. There are two grommets on each corner of the door so that it can be held open with poles to act as a shade over the screened area. On either side are small mesh screen vents that are held open with foam and fabric arms. The side door also has a two zipper closing system where the bathtub floor can fold out flat. There is no mesh screen. The back or rear of the tent has a screened window that zips closed from the outside.

Main entry, ventilation sleeves, vinyl window

Four of the windows are vinyl with no screen or way to open them. Fabric covers for privacy can be opened or closed by separating them from the Velcro tabs. The interior room insert is meant to create a separate room in the back section of the tent. It is held in place with toggles attached to rings with elastic. While it can offer privacy and an alternate to the open floor plan I don’t like it much. It is not snug fitting to the sides of the rainfly. When put in place there is about 6″ of space on the sides, top and back. That is a lot of space lost. Sometime in the future I may disassemble it so that only the door side attaches to the tent. Then it would be useful.

Main entry open, view to back of tent, ventilation vents

There are several reasons I choose this tent. My main reason was to set it up as our heated or air conditioned in camp aid station. There is enough space for two cots or stretchers on saw horses, medical supplies and equipment. The side door floor folds out flat so that if hard plastic or plywood flooring was added a gurney could be wheeled in instead of carried. And, it makes it easier to hand carry without having to step over the fabric threshold of the main door. The vinyl windows don’t open making it easier to heat and cool without modifying them.

View of interior room insert

Toggle attachments

Room divider

I have changed a some things and added a few. Two 8″ ventilation hose sleeves were added to facilitate use of a heater or air conditioner. Velcro was sewn across the bottom of the rear window closure to reduce air exchange. I sewed the floor onto the rainfly walls to keep the insects and unwanted wildlife out. Velcro was also placed at the bottom of the side door. The retaining straps that ran across the floor to hold the sides in place were removed so that the floor could expand and pull tight. They had been placed there to prevent the sides from splaying before the floor was sewn in. The tent seals up good.

View of side door with floor folded down

Set up is easy enough that one person can do it in about 30 to 35 minutes. There are 14 stakes for the tent and 14 for the guy lines. I’ve had the most success setting it up by my self by laying the tent out so the footprint is mostly in place, staking the back corners down, then staking the front entrance center guy line. Once those are in place the three fiberglass color coded poles are pushed though the sleeve then the ends are put over the metal pins connected to the tent body. Moving from back to front the tent will begin to stand up and stay in place.

Front entrance, taper is visible

Next the tent body stakes are placed. To keep the tent in line stake and connect one side then move to the other. Note the front entrance corners are tapered from the place where the poles connect making it a little difficult to line up without them shifted to one side or another. I leave the front for last. It seems easier to line the front up with the sides. Although this tent is not heavy duty it will work well for the occasional use. I’m satisfied how the modifications turned out and the tent itself. Questions and comment are always welcome. Check out the video below. -13

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Bass Pro Eclipse 6 Person Cabin Tent

I have not received compensation in any way for the video or this blog post. I put this up because I could not find any post or video about this model of cabin tent. Plus I want to provide useful information for those considering buying one.

I purchased two of the Bass Pro Eclipse 6 person cabin tents for a couple of reasons. One, Camp Down the Rabbit Hole could offer quarters for housing one or two individuals for our alliance of like minds for camping. Two, to be prepared with temporary quarters in the event our home was damaged in a natural disaster or we had evacuated for any reason.

The tent is constructed with 190T polyester with a 600mm PU coating. It has a bathtub style floor made with 120gm polyethylene. There are two triangle mosquito net ventilation panels in the roof. Four mosquito net windows with zip up privacy shades including the door. The door has a double zipper and is roomy enough to walk through wearing your load bearing equipment. There is also a port on the door side for electric power.

Window with privacy panel down for demonstration. Panel is usually neatly rolled up.

The footprint is 9′ x 10′. The propaganda states that the floor plan is big enough to house to queen size beds and 6 persons. When I’m in the tent it seems to me that it is more suitable for one or two adults, one maybe two camp chairs, a roll top camp table, some personal gear and a portable heater or air conditioner. Not much else. This would depend on how everything was organized.

Fabric plenums.

Vinyl window panel in place.

I made a few modifications to make it more usable. Two fabric plenums were added for interior or exterior air conditioning or heating. Vinyl panels were added using Velcro to quickly and easily attach or remove them. The window coverings allow the privacy panels to be lowered providing a way to see outside and keep the heated or air conditioned air inside. The triangle roof panels were also covered with the clear vinyl so they would seal up the tent yet allow light to pass though.

Pole elbows

Roof crossmember tie off point

The tent is set up using four metal and two fiberglass shock corded poles. The fiberglass poles are used on the roof to give it strong arch support. While the metal poles support the fiberglass roof poles and sides of the tent at each corner with a plastic elbow. Each corner elbow is marked with a 140° mark. This is where the metal poles go. The other end is too small for them and where the fiberglass poles attach. The fiberglass poles cross at the top and are tied in at the center. When putting the poles in place there is a metal pin attached at the corners that goes into the end of the pole.

Corner pole pin

The rainfly has a quick release buckle at each corner that adjust the tension of the fly. There is also a pole that attaches to the rainfly over the door to maintain it’s shape and to offer an awning like structure. The floor outline requires 6 stakes, the rainfly needs 7. The rainfly must be used for stability. It has all the attachment points and guy lines. It takes about 15-20 minutes of uninterrupted time for one person to set the tent up. Also of note is that the only place there is seam tape is the rainfly. None of the seams on the tent body are seam taped. I’ve only experienced mild rain and cannot tell how it performs in a heavy storm.

This video has mostly the same information and footage of the set up. If you have experience with this tent or have questions post them here. -13

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Emergency & Disaster Preparedness – Bedside Commode / Toilet

Bedside commodes, a cost effective, multi-use way to collect human waste. I’ve tried many different portable commodes from the ones that contain fresh water for flushing to the 5 gallon buckets with a toilet seat adapter. I didn’t like any of them.

The water filled commodes require one to find a place to dump the liquid waste and resupply with fresh water plus the blue chemicals required. The 5 gallon bucket type seat is too small and are prone to tipping over while in use. Neither of them seem to account for men using them. In order for the number two the reach the container the number one will be pressed onto and touching the collection bowl. Not a good sanitary situation. Simply, gross and nasty.

Those experiences led me to the bedside commodes typically used for medical purposes. To start off, although the space is limited I don’t end up touching the bowl with my private parts. A big plus for me. The commodes have different features that make them very useful.

Bedside commode over in house toilet

The commode is designed to use bedside for those who are convalescing in the home so they don’t have to travel far for relief. The legs are height adjustable to make it easier to move onto it from a bed or place it over a bathroom toilet so that one can benefit from the arm rest. Some arm rest are movable so that it will make it easier to move from a bed or wheelchair.

Covered bucket bowl with lid and liner.

They all have a covered bowl that uses disposable bags to collect waste and a splash shield. The splash shield is used when the commode is placed over a toilet to funnel the waste into the bowl below. This same configuration can also be used in combination with a lined 5 gallon bucket or in-ground hole or trench latrine.

Splash shield

There are many types of bowl liners available. I usually get the kit form that has the waste collection bag that contains the powder that causes the liquids to gel that once full can be placed into the included zip closed containment pouch. I also use the bulk packaged liners designed for the bedside commodes then add the gelatin powder for the liquids.

Splash shield, 5 gallon bucket combination

Currently we have 5 of these commodes. One for each tent so one doesn’t have to travel through cold or rain soaked late night calls of nature. Also one for each of our designated latrine tents. Mostly they’ve been used for camping. We have had one occasion to use them in the home when the main sewer drain line was broken by a tree root. It took less that 10 minutes to get them out of storage and put in place where we used them for three days until the pipe was repaired. Fortunately no one has had to use them for medical issues.

Commode in our pop-up latrine tent

They are available at any home medical supply store, Freecycle Network, or from Craigslist. They can be priced, depending on features, from little over $100.00 to free. Whatever the price paid they are well worth having on hand. On the topic of camp sanitation a good reference to have on hand is the military field manual FM MED 593 on field sanitation. It has lots of good information for setting up different camp latrines.

I made a short video that shows set ups and features of the different commodes we use. Let me know how you set up and what your experience has been with camp and emergency sanitation. -13

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Esstac 556 Kydex Magazine Insert

I receive no compensation for the video or blog post. I’m posting this because I want others to know more about the product. Preparedness is very important.

If you’re like most American patriots you have the desire to be ready to defend your naturally born rights, family and property. To do so requires owing and being proficient with capable firearms. Good firearms and training mean basic ammunition load-outs, a way to carry and retain them on your person.

Nylon ALICE LBE post Vietnam

When I first started using load bearing equipment(LBE) it was in the mid 1970’s using ALICE LBE. ALICE magazine pouches work great but they to create unwanted bulk when worn forward of the lateral midline of the body. Very much like we see now with the magazines being placed front and center on chest rigs.

ALICE magazine pouch converted to PALS attached to an Air Force Defensor Fortis Load Carrying System

I no longer use the ALICE LBE unless it’s been converted to the Pouch Attachment Ladder System(PALS). The ALICE magazine pouches are still on my LBE located in a more convenient place. Their primary place has been taken by military surplus triple side-by-side pouches.

Surplus triple side-by-side magazine pouch.

These pouches are fantastic for keeping a low profile but suck for shifting magazines or resupply. They don’t hold their shape to maintain an opening that would make is easy to place a magazine in them without looking and two hands. I had considered making some kydex inserts myself but don’t have a shop set up to make them to my quality standards. That fact left me searching for something commercially made.

Esstac 556 KYWI magazine insert.

There are several brands and makers out there, the prices vary considerably. For the price I decided to try the Esstac 556 KYWI. After several months of use I decided to purchase more. They have a shape that once placed into the magazine pouch will snugly hold onto popular 30 round magazines such as the Troy and Pmag brands and of course USGI mags. The insert has the hook part of hook & loop attached to be used with their brand of magazine pouches and a drain hole in the bottom.

The insert keeps the pouch open so that I can load the pouch without looking or having to use two hands. The edges of the kydex are not what I’d call finished. Meaning raw 90° edges. At first I thought this might catch the edges of the magazines but it has not. If it ever gives me a problem I’ll hand smooth them to a desirable angle. So far the unfinished edges seem to help hold the insert in place.

I’m satisfied enough with them to have all my triple pouches outfitted with them and a few spares. Keep in mind that there are different height sizes depending on what you need. Pay attention if you order some. They also have them for 7.62 and pistol magazines. I purchased mine from SKD Tactical however they can be purchased directly from Esstac.

Their use is demonstrated in the video. I included an upside down shake test like you see in other review videos. I however don’t plan on pulling off acrobatics in the field by doing somersaults or hanging upside down like a bat. It has been my experience that the magazines will not dislodge from the pouch when jogging from one position to another or fly out when rapidly going prone. Let me know if you’ve had a different experience with them or use something different. -13

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BMT Mooner J38-5 Moon Clip Loader

I receive no compensation for this post, this is my personal opinion and experience. I’m sharing this because I think it may help people be more satisfied with their moon clip equipped revolver.

This post is for anyone with a revolver that uses moon clips. Loading and unloading moon clips by hand can be a big hassle. Sometimes simply loading or unloading can bend the clip making it useless. With the BMT Mooner J38-5 I can load or unload rounds in seconds with a single twist of the device. It is amazing how well the device works. I made a video of this model since I couldn’t find one online.

This model is for the Smith & Wesson 5 shot J-frames. There is another model available for the 5 shot J-frame as well, if you go to purchase one make sure you contact BMT to insure you get the right one. There are also many more models for various popular revolvers on the market. The cost for my J38-5 was around $100.00. I couldn’t be more satisfied with the device. -13

The link for the moon clip is http://www.bmtequipped.com/index.php

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Austere Medical: Pressure Canner Autoclave

Note: this post contains affiliate links, proceeds support this website.

This blog post is not in any way to be considered as instructions or advise. It is so others can see how I do it. Individuals performing any of the following do so at their own risk and assume all responsibility and liability for their actions.

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In South Florida we have the potential to be without electrical power for long periods of time after a hurricane. One hurricane left us without power for 3 weeks. That potential left us asking, how would we sterilize medical instruments without a commercial autoclave in austere conditions?

With that in mind I set out to see if I could purchase or construct an autoclave that did not require electrical power to operate for under $200.00 dollars. At first I found electric autoclaves that were priced $700.00 dollars and up. Those were out of our budget and electric which wouldn’t be very useful for the situations we envision using an autoclave in. There were non-electric stove top units for $300.00 up to over $600.00 dollars.

The $300.00 dollar unit was only 9.5 quarts much too small for large instruments or packs. 300 seemed like too much for such a small unit. I was somewhat disappointed that there seemed to be few options but the commercially made out of budget autoclaves.

Not satisfied with that I started searching for possible ways to construct a homemade autoclave out of readily available materials. That search led me to this PDF document titled “Use of pressure cookers for sterilization of clinical instruments” found here Link to original location for experiment inspiration. The paper refers to a study conducted by the Dental School of the University of Texas Health Science Center at San Antonio in 1997 which evaluated pressure cookers for their autoclave capabilities.

After reading that paper I decided to try to find the 22 quart pressure cooker/canner mentioned in the paper. I was able to locate a Presto 22 quart model 0178003 on ebay for $59.99. It was in excellent condition. All of the gaskets were changed including the over pressure plug for safety. It also seemed to be good idea since gaskets were mentioned in the document as a potential problem point.

All-American gauge left, Presto gauge right, brass pipe fittings.

Also added was an All-American autoclave pressure gauge. Since there isn’t anyone local to test our pressure canner it seemed like a good idea to add a pressure gauge that was made to be used with an autoclave. I also wanted to keep the original gauge and see how they compared during testing. To do this 1/8″ brass pipe fittings were added so that both gauges could be monitored during a sterilization cycle.

3″ stainless steel screws for legs.

After installing the gauges, gaskets and seals I installed 5 stainless screws on the cooking rack that separates canning jars from the bottom of the canner. I left the rest of the rack untouched. During testing all of the packs came out wet. The rack had a few large holes leaving a lot of surface space for water to accumulate. To give more drainage the entire surface of the rack was perforated by drilling as many holes as I could without compromising the integrity of the rack.

After several tries the packs were still wet where the water wouldn’t drain off. I thought it might be there was still too much surface and surface tension to release the standing water. Also during those test I realized I needed something to prop the pouches and packs against so there would be room for the steam to pass and give the ability to add more instruments.

Stainless grill grate.

Another thing considered was that maybe the aluminum was cooling before the water had a chance to evaporate. I started searching online for a stainless steel cooling rack or grill grate. I found a 10 1/2″ stainless round grill grate on ebay. Also needed was something to separate the packs and pouches. I ordered a length of stainless steel wire online, wrapped it around something which I can’t remember to coil the wire to the shape I wanted. That piece of wire would push into the grill grate in several ways to accommodate the various pack/pouches.

Grill grate with wire coil.

Also during that phase of testing I noticed that once the cooking/drain rack was loaded with packs there was no way to remove them without touching them before they had a chance to cool down. I had a short piece of aluminum flat stock laying around so that was bent into a handle shape then attached to the cooking rack.

Cooking rack with attached handle.

The information in the document mentioned the success difference between the 15 psi and 20 psi pressures. It seemed to me that the preferred pressure would be 20 psi since the document on page 6 stated “No positive cultures were evident in any ampules processed at the increased saturated steam pressure for 5, 10, 15 and 20 minutes in all vessels.”

Cooking rack, grill grate and wire coil

3 piece pressure regulator

A 3 piece pressure regulator was purchased to use for parts to add to the regulator that came with the pressure canner. To achieve the 120 grams as the document mentioned one of the weights from the 3 piece regulator was added with 2 washers. The pick up knob was modified to accommodate the washers so that they would stay centered on the regulator.

20 psi regulator parts

Final regulator weight

After multiple test to assure dry packs and a consistent pressure of 21 psi it was time to see if the modified canner could function as a successful autoclave. Mail in spore test containing Geobacillus stearothermophilus from Mesa Labs were ordered to determine if packs had reached sterilizing conditions.

Instruments were packed in commercial pouches, muslin and CSR wraps to determine if they would interfere with the process. Packs were packaged tightly to make it as difficult as possible for steam to penetrate the pack to the place where the test were located. I was trying to get the process to fail. It never did.

Spore test results

Test results for the thickest pack passed 2 times. The other packs and pouches passed as well. That’s still no guarantee that the packs are sterile. Anyone who processes packs knows that the only place we have any certainty of sterilization was where the test strip was located everything else is assumed to be sterile. I feel confident that sterilization conditions were sufficient throughout the canner so much so I’ve added it to our aid station equipment.

Since there were no specific instructions mentioned in the document I used the instructions for the All American autoclaves. After multiple test conducted I noticed that instead of the 15 cups recommended in the document I was able to use as little as 11 cups but added 12 cups to ensure the cycle wouldn’t dry out.

The steps I followed, also our standard operating procedures(SOP), are the following:

After the canner is loaded with the 12 cups distilled water and the packs the heat source is set to high to bring the water to a rolling boil.
Once boiling and there is a steady stream of steam venting from the vent pipe a timer is set for 7 minutes
After the 7 minutes the pressure regulator was placed on the vent pipe. The pressure is allowed to reach the desired 21 psi.
When the pressure reaches 21 psi the pressure regulator is removed to allow pressure and steam to escape for 4 minutes in an attempt to evacuate all ambient air which may not sterilize if trapped in the canner.
After the 4 minute venting cycle is complete the pressure regulator is placed back onto the vent pipe.
When the pressure on both regulators reaches 21 psi the heat source is turned down to maintain pressure throughout the sterilization cycle.
After the heat source is turned down a timer is set for 5 minutes. During this time the pressure is monitored to ensure it does not go over 21 psi.
Once the pressure is assured a timer is set for 35 minutes to ensure that all parts of thick packs are sterilized.
After the sterilization cycle the packs are removed and the canner is emptied of water.
The packs a placed back into the canner on the heat source set to low to start a dry cycle of 35 minutes.
Once the 35 minutes have passed the packs are removed and allowed to dry for 6-8 hours.
After the packs cool and vent any residual moisture they are placed into plastic pouches and vacuum sealed to preserve the sterility.

SOP’s also include when using a new heat source running at least 3 test to ensure consistent pressure throughout the cycle. We use indicator tape as well as test strips to indicate a cycle is successful. Project cost for the canner, replacement parts and parts for autoclave use was $170.13.

Dangers are explosion if safety features are modified and severe steam burns if a heat protective glove is not used when placing or removing the pressure regulator weight. This type of autoclave must never be left unattended and the pressure must be constantly monitored for consistency and safety.

We have a working autoclave for austere conditions! Now we can sterilize instruments wherever we have a consistent heat source whether it’s in our back yard after a hurricane or in a remote location far away from help. -13

Link to additional information about pressure cooker autoclaves

Check out this 20 minute video about our pressure canner autoclave.

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South Florida Water Main Break Leaves 220,000 Without Water – Are you prepared?

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Broward County Florida, water main break leaves over 220,000 without water for hours with more to come. Residents of cities Sea Ranch Lakes, Tamarac, Lauderdale-By-The-Sea, Port Everglades, Oakland Park, Winton Manors and Ft. Lauderdale were notified by an emergency alert text message early in the morning that the water was cut off. We were informed we may not have water for 24 – 36 hours. We had city water when we went to sleep, when we woke up there was none.

I’m covering this story because it’s local, it affects me directly and it is an excellent demonstration of why we have emergency supplies and equipment. Living in Florida we have an expectation of hurricane events every year. Due to that fact of life one must be prepared for the loss of municipal services like water, or private business services such as electricity.

alligator near water plant on body of water

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Most of the water here comes from aquifer wells because we are surrounded by brackish and salt bodies of water. If one doesn’t know where too look one could run out of water fast here and dehydrate quickly. There is also the potential for dangerous wildlife encounters gathering fresh water. It’s why we keep an average of 80 plus gallon of bottled water on-hand at any given time. With the broken 42 inch pipe temporarily repaired we have a boil water order until further notice. That means they consider all water entering our home to be contaminated and it must be treated before use to be safe.

That’s not all. The repair is only a temporary one and must have a permanent solution before the water supply returns to normal. That means we will be without water again sometime in the near future. The other potential with this incident could have been the loss of electric power. The pipe was broken when a power company contractor was digging a hole for new electric service. Without water and power it would be like after a hurricane. We spent three weeks without power after Katrina struck Miami.

How did this affect our home? Beside potentially contaminating our pipes, hot water heater and toilets it also left us without working fire hydrants. We have water purification covered. We have the ability to boil water with our electric stove, portable gas stove or turkey fryer as well as purify it with a mixed oxidant disinfectant we produce our self and our hiking water filter.

Portable Gas Stove

Turkey Fryer

Mixed Oxidant Generator

Hiking Water Filter

Water purification covered that leaves fire protection. Ft. Lauderdale Fire Rescue reported that they called for mutual-aid from Broward, Miami-Dade and Palm Beach Fire Rescue for tanker trucks to provide water should they need it. Setting up quick dump reservoirs and shuttling water is a time consuming process which may leave fire crews needing water if things don’t go as planned or the fire is a large one. The last thing they want to do is draft from a body of water or canal.

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Without working hydrants and the slow nature of tanker trucks there is the potential for a ripping blaze by the time fire crews can supply enough water to fight fire effectively. I’ve seem homes burn down because there was no water supply or a delay in supplying it. If the homeowner or tenant doesn’t have a way to fight fire during a natural or manmade disaster there is always the possibility of loosing everything or someone.

The best success causing the least damage requires a quick response. If we had a fire during the worst part of a hurricane we would be on our own without municipal fire protection. That means during a storm we have to have the ability to put out a fire. If not if will burn a home down and possibly the neighbors as well depending how close they are. Radiant heat will set other homes, vehicles and anything else close enough on fire.

Because of our preparations for those type incidents we have for the most part been unaffected. Our water supplies were in stock there was no need to go anywhere for supplies. We have several means to supply pure water so there was no concern should we have to use them. And on a small scale we have fire protection covered, enough so that we could put out a small fire quickly. We regularly wash clothing and dishes as soon as there is a load, so most of our clothing/dishes are clean. That was a lesson learned from Katrina.

This incident should make more people aware of the preparations necessary to prevent last minute scrambling for emergency supplies. No matter where one may live there is always the potential need for those supplies. Everyone should be prepared. This was an excellent test of our capabilities. I think our preparations have proven to meet my expectations. Are you ready? -13

Video below.

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Austere Medicine: Mega Medic Bag – Kit Contents

Note: this post contains affiliate links, proceeds support this website.

I finally got around to finishing this bag and making a video! On June 3rd of 2016 I posted a product review video of the Mega Medic bag. At the time it was sitting empty, we had decided our medical supplies and equipment needed to be changed and updated based on how the use of the kits evolved over the previous 5-8 years. Most of the kits had been used out of a rescue truck for a project we were working on.

When I made the review video I gathered various medical items that fit into the different parts of the bag to demonstrate the possibilities of what could be kept there. The items shown weren’t a set up ready-to-go kit. I already had a list for the kit contents but didn’t have everything I wanted. Some of the items on hand had reached it’s useful life.

Recently after reading a video comment on the kit I had never seen before I checked to see what was needed to finish this kit. Triangle bandages. That was all. Trying to keep track of medical inventory without a computer may put me in a straight jacket. After replacing and restocking items the kit was finally ready. How is that for a swift kick in the pants?

B Compartment

The kit is an extension of the aid bag. This is considered our Trauma Kit and builds on splinting, bandaging, eye, dental, large wounds, burns. Can be resupply or used as is. It is based on several kits from past experience. It may be hard to imagine but nearly every item in this kit could be expended on one incident.

Some of the kits from the past using the same bag had more of the bandaging and splinting materials. Those kits had been based on, in part, by proximity to a military base and a direct flight path where helicopters and transport aircraft that could hold hundreds of soldiers could and sometimes did go down.

Then there is the, being the only one there and no one is coming. To the rural 20,000 person county, only 5 people qualified to operate two ambulances with the nearest mutual aid unit 30 minutes away, no air support. Standing there after a mass casualty incident looking around and seeing empty aid bags and bandaging supply wrappers among the carnage leaves a lasting impression.

Alpha compartment, why we use those pouches

During the same time we were updating our kits we were able to find several different type packing organizers on sale at Marshalls store. After using a few of them we went back to that store and many others within our local area and bought whatever stock they had in the store.

Those finds allowed us to keep items protected in ziploc bags and create mini kits without having a kit full of ziploc bag mess. Multiples of one type item or a kit made of several different components they’ll work well for many common items.

Double side bandaging pouch (Go Travel Packing Pouch no.3)

The bag above was one of the last pouches found. As it’s packed it works very well, 8 rolls Kerlix, 12 5×9 Surgipads, 20 4×4 sponges. I’ve looked for more and can’t find them. The pouch below is what was used before we found the pouch above. The dressings were packed the same way they are shown, the Kerlix was packed like the double side pouch, 8 rolls in a ziploc bag.

The smaller pouches have items like tape, self adhesive, triangle and elastic bandages. The bandage pouches are very handy for bandaging purposes or resupply. Glad we found them when we did.

Single side bandaging pouch (Travelon Packing Organizers Set-Small)

CD Case

I’ve been looking at ways to store the instant hot and cold compresses for years. When the portable CD cases became available I found out they worked well. If the internal storage sleeves are removed there is room for two instant compresses. All I had to do to get this type case to work was remove the sleeves from the rivets that were simple to pull out by hand.

At first I used a metal case but it added weight and was too stiff to fit in multiple spaces. When these softer type plastic cases became available I tried one. Discovered that I liked it better. It has more flexibility and can fit into tighter spaces than the metal case. For the type of compress and CD case chosen its simple to get them into the case. First, I arrange the liquid part of the compress in one half of the bag and the dry ingredients in the other then, fold in half.

Case open showing how compress is packed

Place both compresses in the case then close it. As shown below it works good. The compress is protected from punctures and abrasion and it’s easy to see the contents. I usually look for things like this at the outlet stores but ordered these off eBay for consistency.

Case packed with 2 compresses

This kit has one 18″ and two 36″ SAM splints that can be used in many different ways and can be custom cut with the trauma shears. Very handy to have on hand. They beat the old ice cream scoop, vinyl covered wood, blow-up doll, waxed cardboard splints any day.

FareTec CT-6

REEL Splint

The two photos above show the traction splints kept in or with the trauma kit. The FareTec and the REEL splints are surplus finds. If you’re looking to stock your kit check out eBay and the surplus stores. Make sure all the parts are there before you buy, get new if at all possible. Couldn’t give a price on either of these. eBay as I shockingly found out only keeps auction records for 3 years not a running tally like Amazon.

Dental / Eye Kit

In the photo above are the contents of the dental and eye kit. The denture case can be used for dentures, loose teeth or prosthetic eyes. There is a scleral cup for removing contacts and prosthetic eyes. A case for contact lens and a 10x magnified mirror.

Two eye shields and two food service 16 ounce deli cups for covering injured eyes. Those things can work well for keeping eyes protected. Some of the eye injuries I’ve seen makes me want these in stock at all times. Not shown are the sterile eye cups, the Sal-jet rinse 30ml saline vials or the Refresh Plus eye drops.

Most items in the kit have multiple uses. Dressing like the trauma and surgipad make good splint padding. The surgical CSR wraps in the kit to make clean working space can be used to protect wounds. A mylar blanket as an occlusive dressing. The list is endless.

Security Sealed Kit

Security seals are an important part of our medical system. The seals are tightly controlled and numbered. A strict system is in place, only a couple of people here are allowed to seal a kit. That way when one of the kits need to be used and the seal is intact we can be assured the contents will be there.

The seals used in the video are not the same seals used on our bags. They’re from old stock and are used for training. They work the same as fire extinguisher seals, twist or pull on the seal and it will break easily. If you get some, get numbered if possible it will help in case someone else has the same type/color seals.

A word of caution, be careful where they are placed on zippers they can break zipper parts easy.

Hardigg AL3018-0905

The Trauma Kit is kept in a cabinet or could be stored and transported in a heavy duty case with the REEL splint, a MOLLE 2 pack frame, various color pack covers, a quick litter in a dump pouch and a small tarp to place the contents onto. The case is stored with the gasket out, if left in place it compresses under the weight of the other cases and is not as effective over time.

Seems like that covers the items I felt I left out of the video. I don’t want to repeat the video here. I would rather people watch the video, then read the blog after to see what was left out. Clearly I don’t write scripts for these videos, just an item name, maybe a note. If there are any changes or updates in the future they’ll be posted. The new video is below. -13

Other video project featuring the Mega Medic bag are below.

Product review video.

Video of MOLLE 2 pack modifications.

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Austere Medicine: Mega Medic Bag / MOLLE 2 Pack Frame Attachment Points

The first video I made on this bag.

The Dyna-Med Mega Medic bag is one of my favorite bags to use. Only problem is when I pack the bag it gets heavy. Sometimes 35+ pounds. I need a better way to move the bag than hand or over shoulder carry with that kind of weight.

I have a broken MOLLE 2 pack frame I like to use for experiments so I don’t break a good one. By chance I laid the frame next to the mega medic bag setting on a table one day. It was easy to notice how close they were in size so I set the bag on top of the frame and this is the result.

A video how I modified the mega medic bag to attach to the MOLLE 2 pack frame. It’s not a how-to, it’s a how I did it video. The process was simple but time consuming.

Put the bag on the frame, pick the best spots to attach webbing. Mark it, get the dimensions for the webbing, mark, then cut the pieces. That process took maybe 45 minutes to an hour. Once the webbing is ready its sewing time.

I knew sewing was going to go slow. The pieces I’ve added would have been sewn on much sooner in the assembly process reducing the time drastically. The time was no problem since quality/accuracy is more important to me than speed. The webbing straps make it easy to attach to the MOLLE 2 frame. Think this took more like an hour plus but I’m not sure.

I did notice over the last few videos how bad the audio is so I’ll attempt to make it better. Several issues there that must be addressed. After I’ve updated the kit contents I’ll make another video about the bag to include kit content and modifications. -13

Video of modifications.

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Vacuum Sealer Project: FIRESTARTER

The simple vacuum sealer. One of my favorite appliances made for home use. I’ve always wanted to have the ability to vacuum package my own stuff since I opened one in the 70’s. It might be survival supplies, clothing I want to stay dry and compact, or something good to eat. Around here seems like the sealer gets used for non-food items as much as repackaged food or snacks.

Sometime in 2016 I started to update our fire starting kits. In the past my fire starting kit included military surplus matches/trioxane fuel bars/toilet paper packet, flint/steel/char-cloth/extra cloth/in a tin, Bic brand lighter, a Doan Magnesium Firestarter , pine heart wood, magnifying glass, and wildcrafted tender that was constantly in need of replacement.

I always use the lighter first. All the rest of it backup or an aid when the flames needed a little help. The updated kit for everyday fire starting is very small, natural fibre tender, lighter and WetFire if the fire needs help.

The survival fire starting kit has more options based on the many fire starting failures and successes I’ve experienced over the years. I know what does and does not work for me. There is nothing like suffering as a motivator. If at all possible I won’t do without a heat source.

The updated kit is set up to be self contained within an individual survival kit or pack. All of the items within the kit are vacuum sealed individually. Each vacuum package is over size to allow the package to be reused after opening. The length is long enough to allow the end to be rolled up then held closed with a rubber band included in each package.

Not sure if this would work I tested to see if this would be enough to keep out rain or a dunk in water. Part of a paper towel was placed into the package. The torn edge was rolled then held in place with a rubber band. The sprayer on the sink set to high, water blasted on the package from every angle for a minute or so with no leak.

A similar test was set up for dunking. The same package used to test before was used for this test, nothing was changed on the package at all. The package was held underwater in a drywall compound bucket for about thirty seconds to a minute. I held it down by hand and moved it gently in the water to simulate a quick immersion in a body of water. Thinking as if this was in my pocket and I fell into water somehow and was able to get out quickly. Again, the result, dry.

Wouldn’t it be great if I’d filmed it. But no! It was an after thought. Not so much as a photograph. Getting used to that now. Better off doing your own testing for sure. The packing material rolled tightly along with the compression of the rubber band worked much better than I expected.

The contents are mostly modern. I’ve eliminated the old time flint-steel and military surplus trioxane/matches/T.P. The kits may still contain military surplus like a Doan’s firestarter or folding knife since those seem to last forever.

Added UCO matches to the standard book matches and Bic lighter. Anyone who has not seen the testing done on the UCO matches should see it then make up their own mind. If it gets down to lighting a fire with matches I think those are my best chance of getting it lit. They are the only match I know of that will still be lit if I manage to drop it in water.

Various types of tender. A tin of pine heart wood with a high pitch content, cedar and hardwood shavings, alcohol prep pads and WetFire cubes. Magnifying glass and fresnel lens. Swedish Fire steel purchased on sale with either a Camillus military stainless four blade folder or a Victorinox Pioneer knife.

All of it packaged in a waterproof vacuum sealed pouch made at home. It measures roughly 5 1/2″ x 8″, 1lb 3oz or 540g. The kit will never be a problem to keep on hand. The last addition to the kit was a by accident item.

A friend came back from a professional convention and handed me several nylon carry bags. I looked at them, they had cord configured into a backpack. Didn’t think much of the flimsy things so I set them aside. About an hour later a thought smacked me in the head like a hammer.

I grabbed one, folded it a few times, it fit the fire starting kit profile. Like it was planned that way. The thought that hit me was how useful the bag would be in gathering all the small stuff needed to start a fire that is difficult to transport without loosing valuable resources. The thinking was what if the fire starting kit was the only survival item I had on my person a way to carry things would be very helpful.

Sure the bag is made of imported nylon and cordage. The thing is, all it has to do is work well once for a short period of time. If the bag is not overloaded I have confidence it will hold lightweight items for a few days until help arrived or conditions changed. The already made kit and the bag were added to another vacuum pouch then sealed. That way the bag can be retrieved without having to open the fire starting kit if its not needed.

Don’t forget the tear notch! Must have the tear notch no matter what your preference!

Tear notch samples

This video was filmed in early 2017 after getting all the items together. I noticed after making the package in the video I had left the knife out. That’s what I get for not making a checklist. It was not filmed but the knife was added as soon as I moved some of the stuff visible to the right in the video. The knife was covered by some it.

This is a kit I never want the need to use it. Because if I do need to use it, it means something has gone wrong. -13

The video.

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Vacuum Sealer Project: Pill Pack for Medication

This Preparedness – Prepper – Hiker Vacuum Sealer Tip may get you arrested. Sensational title but true. Those of us who take multiple pills whether they’re prescription medications or supplements often use those multi-dose/day pill containers. Doing so could get you arrested, maybe prosecuted. Prescription medications are supposed to remain in their original container according to the law as I understand it.

There are all sorts of possibilities which is why the only advise I ever give anyone is, seek the advise of legal counsel and medical professionals before you do whatever it is you’re up to.

I made these pill packs originally for backpacking/hiking trips and as a way to carry a small amount of vital medications on my person at all times. Ever miss your ibuprofen, antihistamine or whatever because you didn’t have it with you? Yeah me too but no longer. Plus it helps save money buying in bulk and having to not throw out medications stored improperly.

I make up a new pack/s every time I have to open bulk meds. Usually fill one or two of the individual pouches and then put the rest in a larger pouch for long-term storage. I always include the name of the drug/supplement, type/concentration, lot number and expiration date. I never separate this information from anything I place in these pouches until I’d consumed the contents. It’s very important to keep them together.

Things I find helpful to have on hand, a red sharpie makes it easier for me to see the marks so I can line them up with the heat sealer portion of the vacuum sealer. A funnel helps with precise placement of the pills. I have a short extension of soft plastic tubing but couldn’t find it for the video. It’s good for reaching to the deepest part of the pouch when trying to get pills that want to grab the pouch material instead of slide.

To make the pill packs I use an 11″ vacuum sealer roll like the rolls in this link. 2 Pack – SimpleHouseware 11″ x 50′ Commercial Vacuum Sealer Rolls Food Storage Saver Compatible to Foodsaver Sous Vide (total 100 feet) To make the template I used microsoft publisher then converted it into a downloadable PDF file located here. PILL PACK DIVIDER INDIVIDUAL DOSE TEMPLATE When looking at the template the top and bottom two boxes are larger than the center boxes. They’re larger to account for the various size factory sealed edges.

I laminated my second printing for durability because the first one was getting beat up from use, and also added a grommet to hang up or bind with other similar items.

Expired meds shown in the video are kept past their expiration date if preserved correctly following the DoD Shelf Life Extension Program. I would include a link but the government has removed them. Not sure how you’ll get that info now I don’t have anything to share at the time of this posting. Research it maybe you’ll find something.

Everything else I think, is in the video. Check it out. -13

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Vacuum Sealer Project: Another easy-open packaging video!

Another video about how to make your vacuum sealer packaging easier to open with a pattern notcher.

This goofy video was totally inspired by the Jingle track playing with the video. When I was making a longer version of a video with the same topic I was searching through iMovie’s sound library for a little intro sound. As I was listening to the tune this video idea popped into my head. I thought it would be cool to try to communicate similar information in the 36 seconds it takes the tune to play without a voice speaking over the track.

I went back to my improvised shop set up in the living room and recorded this in about 15 minutes and spent about an hour editing. It’s kind of silly and dumb and totally low-budget but I actually like it and it was fun from beginning to end to make. Have fun hope you enjoy it. -13

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